Hydro Garden Grow Guide
Intro:
Before we get into the good stuff, let’s take a quick look at exactly what we will be covering and some best practices for using this guide. First off, this is not intended to cover every detail in setting up and maintaining a hydro garden but rather give a basic, yet thorough, foundation and understanding of what is involved from start to finish and give you the tools to utilize that information in whatever way you choose. After you have read through this guide, you should know enough to use the journals in the Hydro Garden app and track your plants every step along the way.
Enjoy the guide and, moreover, enjoy the amazing experience of cultivating your very own hydroponic garden.
Overview:
Along the journey you will encounter many different strains, but the technical term for all cannabis plants used in cultivating medicinal herbs is “Cannabis sativa” (more detail about strains is included in the Strains section). Any time you see that or simply “cannabis” this is what we’re talking about.
Let’s begin by figuring out what the end goal will be. The biggest decision you’ll need to make is whether you’re trying to grow buds or seeds. The way to create the desired outcome is by monitoring and responding appropriately to the gender of the plants. The only plants that create flowers (buds) are unfertilized females. If a female plant gets fertilized by the male, rather than creating flowers, it will create seeds. This is a technique used for cross-breeding various strains, but the more common method is to remove male plants as soon as they are visibly male. If you begin with seeds, you should expect that about half will turn out to be male and potentially weeded out.
A very easy solution to this is to begin with clones. Clones are clippings from a plant that will be guaranteed to be of the same strain and gender that they came from. These can be purchased at many medical cannabis dispensaries and are often easier to obtain than seeds anyway so this is often the preferred method to begin with.
The other key factor to determine is how large the final plant will be. One fascinating aspect of cannabis gardening, particularly with an indoor garden, is the precise control we have over when it matures and changes cycles from growing leaves and getting taller to growing flowers. If you’re growing in a limited space, e.g. a closet, it will be especially important to switch phases before your crop gets too large. This phase change is induced by changing the amount of light you’re allowing the plant to receive. In nature, when the seasons change so does the amount of time the sun is out and the plants pick up on this. When days become shorter and nights become longer in the fall, the plants begin to bud. What this translates to indoors is changing from something like 18 hours of light and 6 hours of dark (standard vegetative stage light cycle) to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark (standard flowering stage light cycle).
Once the plants are fully mature and ready to harvest you will trim off excess leaves and carefully dry out the buds, at which point you are free to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Setup Overview:
As with most aspects of a garden, there are a number of setups to choose from; some involve planting in pots with soil, some outdoors in the ground, and some use hydroponic methods and no soil. These are always be evolving into new and exciting ways to grow, but again, this level of detail will not be covered here. We will discuss topics like the nutrients that go into the soil or feed, stages of growth that occur regardless, general troubleshooting, and broad topics that apply across the board. As far as picking up the supplies necessary, there are many hydroponic stores that will be able to help you get your entire setup easily and without a lot of innovation on your end. If you’re setting up something a little simpler or are just looking to do it all yourself, after a little bit of Googling you can find plenty of online stores and get the best deals on grow lights, nutrients, testers, and all that good stuff. Another great resource is your local nursery. Most of your grow medium, pots, watering cans, and feed and can be purchased here. A couple key notes for indoor growers I’d like to mention are regarding air circulation/ventilation size restrictions. Wherever you choose to set up your garden, it absolutely must have good air circulation and since it can get quite hot with grow lights, it is key that the hot air has somewhere to escape. This is much more critical in smaller, more restricted spaces. You will also need to be aware of not only the height, but the width as well. Remember that these plants need to grow outward as well as upward. Plants can be all different sizes, so there is no standard to go on, but if you’re aware in planning and you have a choice of one space over another, this can be a determining factor. The last piece that will make a huge difference, if followed from the get-go, is cleanliness. It's a good idea to thoroughly clean the area you will be growing in and maintain that throughout. Bleach and water can be used for an easy cleaning solution to use on most surfaces in the grow area.
Lighting:
If you are growing outdoors, this section is not for you. This is about creating artificial light to mimic the sun’s light in an indoor garden. Lighting is a subject that I recommend you research a little deeper beyond this guide because there are so many details to consider, but I'll get you pointed in the right direction and hopefully leave you with very little to gather on your own. The first thing to look at with lighting is the light spectrum. Different types of light bulbs will produce different ranges in that spectrum. During the vegetative stage cannabis flourishes with more of a focus on blue light while during flowering it doest best with red light. Ideally it will get a constant mix of the two, with an emphasis on one or the other, but this is not always possible if you’re in a restricted space or don’t want to invest in 2 separate lighting setups. In order to provide this light, you can use a metal halide bulb for the blue light and a high pressure sodium bulb for the red light. To regulate power to the bulb, you will need a ballast specific to the type of bulb you’re using. If you would like to switch between metal halide and h.p.s. (e.g. when you switch to flowering) and want to use only one ballast, you can get a universal one which lets you use either type of bulb. You will want to use as much of the light as possible because it’s trying to mimic the sun. In order to not waste any light, you can cover the walls and ceiling with mylar (that shiny metal looking material that will make your closet look like a UFO). Use this to cover any cracks where light may leak out, as it will reflect that light back onto the plant. You can also purchase a reflective hood, which will allow you to keep the bulb further away from the plant and will in turn help prevent the leaves from burning. Lastly, just be careful. You’re working with electricity at the same time as water. Try not to get any water on the light bulb, as this may cause it to crack or explode, and avoid handling the bulb with your hands as much as possible. When you do need to handle it, make sure it is turned off and has cooled down. These bulbs remain hot for a while even when they’re off.
Grow Medium:
As far as grow medium is concerned, a lot depends on your environment. If you’re growing outside, you’ll be at the will of nature, if you’re growing indoors you can either choose to use soil, clay pellets, or even none at all. The keys to choosing the right grow medium, or combination of mediums are built around making sure the plant is allowed access to nutrients that pass through, without building up too much salt, and allowing enough freedom for the roots to grow through without much restriction. You may decide to use soil with nutrients already in it or you may consistently add your own to a more neutral blend. Either way can be effective, but I would recommend the later of the two to ensure ultimate control over the nutrients throughout the process. If you’re adding it all yourself you can decide if the plant needs more nitrogen, less phosphorus, less feed altogether, or any other number of other possible combinations. The grow medium should also be able to retain enough water to feed the plant but still be able to drain so that salt buildup doesn’t occur. There are plenty of materials such as perlite for retaining water that you can easily find at your local nursery. A good technique for preventing the salt buildup, regardless of grow medium, is to flush the plants every couple of weeks, or as needed. All this process entails is running clean pH neutral water through your grow medium. Add about 3 times as much water as you normally would when feeding and make sure to allow for proper drainage. A basic mixture to get up and running free of nutrients is to mix equal parts of perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss (again, all available at your local nursery).
Germination:
Germination is a very short stage compared to the rest of the plant's life-cycle. Many growers even choose to bypass this stage entirely and that is determined on your choice of using seeds or clones. If seeds are used, you’ll need to make sure the seed is going to germinate before it can enter the seedling phase. If clones are used it’s already in that phase. There are many different methods used for germination but the two most common are by using paper towels (or something similar) or just a bowl of water. The method I prefer is the first which is to take a couple paper towels and soak them in water. Place any seeds you’d like to plant on this paper towel and place a couple more dry ones on top. Saturate the dry ones so the seeds are sandwiched between two wet paper towels. Take these wet paper towels and seeds, place them in a plastic bag, and close the bag to retain the moisture. After a couple days a white sprout should break through the seed and you can carefully plant this about 1/4 inch deep in a small amount of grow medium. The second method is not very different from the first only instead of placing the seeds between paper towels, soak them in a bowl of water. Either method will cause the seeds to germinate so feel free to use which ever you see fit.
Seedling:
Once the seeds begin sprouting, it’s time for the seedling phase. This is where the plant begins to show its first leaves and begins taking root. Seedlings require at least 16 hours of light, though the light required is not as intense as will be in future stages. Fluorescent lights can be used and should be kept between 1 foot to 1.5 feet from the plants. If you would prefer, you can use the same metal halide or high pressure sodium bulb as previously mentioned, but this needs to be between 3 to 4 feet from any plants since it is much stronger. The plants must be fed consistently, but be careful not to drown them. Use water alone or about a 1/4 strength nutrient solution at this stage. Once leaves begin to quickly develop, this phase is just about done and the plant is heading into a vegetative state.
Vegetative:
Once the seedlings enter this stage, if they were in small containers, it would be wise to transplant them into larger pots so the roots will have plenty of room to grow. This phase requires 18 to 24 hours of light. It’s best to set an automatic timer so you don’t forget. If the light cycle changes, even by accident, the plant can begin changing phases at the wrong time. Make sure that the plants are getting as much light all around as possible. This shouldn’t be a problem if the room is set up with the reflective material. You should water your plants every day, but do not necessarily feed them every day. Consult the individual fertilizer you use, directions should be on any container. It is also a good idea to test your soil for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels at least once a week. This can be done with a simple kit found online or at a nursery. Almost any feed you buy will tell you how much of each of those is contained in that mix so you'll know what you’re adding and when to add it. During the vegetative stage, plants like a focus on nitrogen, but make sure not to overfeed. Too much nitrogen can cause nitrogen poisoning. If the light cycle is not changed, this state will continue indefinitely, so if you’re going for a larger plant, just leave it in this phase longer.
Flowering:
Flowering is induced when the light cycle changes to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. This should be done when the plant is about 1/2 to 2/3 of the total height you are aiming for. The plant growth does slow, but it will continue and the plant may increase up to about twice its size. The fertilizer mix should also be changed at this point to have more focus on phosphorus. This helps in creating and feeding the buds that you will be harvesting. There are many pre-made “bloom” or “flowering” fertilizers that have higher levels of phosphorus just for this purpose. Right before the plant enters the flowering stage, and sometimes even sooner, the males and females begin to show as they reach maturity. Males can be determined by small green sacks near the bases of branches. Females develop pairs of small white hairs around the same areas of the plants. If you’re not breeding for seeds, make sure to remove males as soon as possible. This shouldn’t be an issue if you started from a clone. Once most of the white hairs on the female have changed to a reddish or brown color, it’s ready to harvest. Each plant is slightly different in terms of color so be cautious not to wait too long or not long enough. Check online for photos of your strain or just to get a feel for what a ready-to-harvest plant looks like. Additionally, you should stop feeding your plant any nutrients about 7-10 days before the harvest. This can make a big difference in the taste of the plant once it's ready for consumption.
Avoiding Pests And Mold:
Keeping a clean environment will play the biggest role in preventing unwanted pests and mold. Remember to keep yourself clean as well. When entering the garden it is best to first shower, or at a minimum, wash your hands and put on a clean pair of clothes. Germs, bugs, or any foreign substance can easily be tracked in from outside. Plants can gently be sprayed a couple times a day with clean water. This will help keep insects off of the leaves. If you need to clean a little bit deeper, a small amount of mild dish soap mixed in with the water can be used. It will also be a good idea to flush the water as previously mentioned, this helps keep your soil in good condition for plant growth and not as good for unwanted molds. Make sure to enter any physical changes you notice in the “Physical Changes” section in the "Details" area then touch "Get some tips..." in the "General" area to get some quick tips. The sooner you notice any changes, the more likely you’ll be to treat them successfully. If you would like to get more in depth with any issues that may arise, a great book to check out is “Marijuana Garden Saver: Handbook for Healthy Plants” by J. C. Stitch. This book has information about, solutions to, and pictures of all sorts of conditions to which cannabis is susceptible.
The Harvest:
This stage plays an important role in determining the physical quality of the final dry buds. If the buds dry too quick, they will produce a harsh smoke and crumble easily. If they dry too slow, they can develop mold, which is often non-consumable. The first thing to decide is whether you want to trim the leaves before or after the drying. If you trim them off first then hang the buds, the buds can dry better with less risk of mold. If you trim them after the buds are dry, they will be easier to remove and more rigid. Either way will work fine, but feel free to experiment with both and see what works best for you. Most growers will not let the buds dry too fast by either letting them slowly dry inside a paper bag or drawer or switching back and forth between a drying and rehydrating process. The back and forth method is an easy one to monitor and good to try if you’re a first time grower. Hang the buds to dry in a dark room and make sure the air is circulating freely. This can be achieved by letting a fan run, which is not pointed directly at the drying buds. Once they are dry to the touch, seal them inside a garbage bag for less time than they’ve been drying. Once they’ve redistributed some moisture, you can hang them to dry again. Repeat this process about 4 or 5 times until the buds are just right to your liking. Make sure to look into making hash from the leaves that remain. While you wouldn’t use the leaves alone as medicine, you can extract what is left from them without too much effort. It’s always good to get the most from your harvest you can so your efforts are fully utilized. There are some ready to go methods like the bubble bag method which involve nothing more than a couple bags, some ice/water, a bucket, and a hand mixer.
Strains:
There will always be new and evolving strains of Cannabis sativa, but they all stem from the same origins. Every strain you’ve ever heard of belongs to one of, or a combination of, the following varieties: indica, sativa, ruderalis, or afghanica. Afghanica is typically categorized with indica, and ruderalis is known for quick flowering but is generally avoided since it is usually lower quality and often promotes negative side effects, such as headaches. Because of that, we will focus on the two you will see most frequently at dispensaries and seed banks: indica and sativa. Indica dominant cannabis is known to give the patient more of a “stoned” or relaxed feeling, often used for pain management or anxiety related issues. Sativa dominant cannabis is know for the “high” or energetic feeling achieved. As mentioned before, many strains are a combination of the two, which makes it easy to find exactly the right hybrid for many different ailments. Furthermore, any dispensary you may visit for clones, buds, or information, should be able to assist you in finding a strain that suits your needs if you are still unsure
Resources:
The following are some resources I have found useful, but there are always new articles being published, websites getting started, community centers opening, and so on, so make sure to stay active and involved to be aware of all that is available to you.
Books:
- Marijuana Horticulture The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower’s Bible by Jorge Cervantes
- Marijuana Garden Saver: Handbook for Healthy Plants by J. C. Stitch
Websites:
- NORML
- ASA
- MPP
- A good jumping off point for medical cannabis information
Other:
- "Ready, Set, Grow" (DVD)
- Search for "marijuana" or "cannabis" on the App Store and see what comes up.
